Saturday, August 25, 2012

Off Grid Camping in the Rockies

This is where we have been working as Camp Facility Operators for the past couple of weeks at Stone Mountain Provincial Park, Summit Lake Campground in the northern Rockies of British Columbia and we love it! I don't believe there is any place on Earth more beautiful or more peaceful and serene! This is the highest point on the Alaskan Highway and we are right at the tree line, surrounded by stone top mountains and boreal forest. The top picture is a panoramic shot of the view from our daily trail walk. This sign sits at the top of the hill on our main trail.

We are learning to live off grid while we camp here. We have fresh drinking water in the form of a mountain stream that runs clean and clear down the hill behind our camper. The water is filtered through sand and gravel and is fine for drinking as is. We do have to haul it up the hill when our fresh water camper tank is empty. It holds about 7.5 large plastic water jugs. I have learned that it is easier to take the big jobs to the water, rather than haul it all up here. We fill a bucket with our dirty dishes as we go throughout the day. When it is full, usually after lunch, I take it down to the stream and wash them. It is easier when I don't have to conserve water. I just set the pots to soaking  in the stream to soak while washing the little stuff. I can even use sand under the dishcloth for scrubbing! I also do our laundry by hand. I fill a bucket from the stream and set it beside the door outside. I dissolve some detergent in warm water and add that, along with any other additives I might want to use. We toss our dirty laundry into that bucket as the day goes by, also getting it out of the camper. I slip on a rubber glove by the bucket and agitate it and scrub spots throughout the day, as I pass by, when I feel like it. It sits there and soaks for a day or two, then I drain it at the campsite, wring out the clothes and take the bucket of clothes to the stream for rinsing and wringing. Large items can be wrung out by rolling up and kneading on a large boulder, like bread. I hang them to dry back at the campsite. They look brighter and cleaner than they have for years! I don't consider either of these things to be a chore. I love it down there beside the stream! I could sit there all day on those boulders pretending to be someone who has all morning to sit here, puttering away at washing dishes or laundry in the stream. Oh wait!! That is me ! This is my life!! :-)

We have been given a cabin to use, as well, but it is more of a large shed than a cabin. We live in our camper and store our supplies in the cabin and there is also a pit toilet behind the cabin. The cabin serves as a sleeping quarters for Shadow and Abby at night. It gives them a change of scenery and room to run around. They spend much of the night time sitting in the window, looking out and, hopefully, keeping mice out of our food supply. We have a little mouse living in the camper wall now that they have been stalking for the past couple of days. They can't get to him inside the wall, but they keep trying. It keeps them busy. We see him outside, occasionally.

We don't have phone, TV or internet up here and we like it that way for now, although we do watch the occasional movie DVD on the laptop. It's a good break for us, a chance to redefine our lifestyle without those things and spend time growing closer together and reshaping ourselves. We have to drive about 10 mins down the mountain to make a phone call and check our email. We do a lot of walking daily to the campground, around to each site and home again. We also expend quite a bit of energy hauling our water up the hill from the stream. We hike everyday and hope to be lean and healthy when the camp closes in another three weeks. Then we head south for the winter.

Because of the short season up here, this campground is only open for four months of the year. We have been asked to work at the Liard Hot Springs Campground next year. It is larger and there are jobs for both of us there. They also have a tap for the water which is a big help, so we will probably work there next summer. Camp Facility Operators are in great demand, especialy mature, experienced and responsible ones. We have to get through this coming winter first.

Where to go for the winter is a big question for us. We don't yet know where we will be going when we are finished up here. It's more a question of too many choices, as not enough and none of them seem to be exactly what we are looking for. We would like to work some and add more funds to our savings throughout the winter. We don't like a lot of heat and humidity. The days here are very warm, mostly shorts and T-shirts but we sleep under a quilt and extra blanket every night. It's perfect! Also, being so far north the days are very long in the summer months, staying light until about 11pm during the longest day period. At the north pole there are six months of light and six months of dark, all being sort of twighlight really. We are heading into the short day period now and hope to be staying much further south or on the Pacific coast where there is no winter when we are finished here.

Right now we are enjoying the month of quiet reflection and nature that we have here. The campground is busy on the weekends and we have met many nice and interesting people from all over the world! It is surprising how many Europeans are here travelling to Alaska! We have had campers from Germany, France, Sweden, Holland, England, Scotland and several other places that I cannot remember now, however, most are from Fort Nelson, about an hour's drive away. The same regulars fill the campground on nice weekends. Today we met three guys on bicycles, going from Alaska to Argentina! Wow! Yesterday we met a couple of hikers with a goat named "Brownie" as a pack animal. They said that Brownie likes the mountain trails and is very sure footed everywhere, better than they are. He does not, however, like the cold water crossing the mountain streams.

We see a lot of wildlife up here. There are few bears in this area as the highway is just too busy and they avoid humans whenever possible (thank goodness!). Lloyd takes a bat with us on all of our hikes.

Young Cariboo

We do see a lot of stone sheep, usually right out on the highway. They have lost much of their fear of humans so we assume that people are feeding them. There are little chipmunks in the campground that are like that too. We see the occasional cariboo also. Just last week we saw three young cariboo males on the highway, stopping traffic both ways. The drivers don't usually mind and are out of the cars taking pictures. It can also be sad. Just two days ago a Cariboo family, father, mother and youngster were on the highway when a speeding pick up passed a stopped car illegally and hit the parents head on, killing both instantly. The young one ran off but is not a little baby at this time of year, so will probably survive, but I think the authorities will make sure it does. The Cariboo are protected here. The driver of the truck just kept going but his truck was in bad shape. We have a big piece of the front of it stored away here, at our campsite. It was heartbreaking but both parents were killed instantly and never knew what hit them, mercifully. Cariboo are also called raindeer. 

This animal is the fiercest in the area. It is known to be more dangerous even than the giant grizzly!











There is a badger and a moose that live near the park and visit frequently and there is a family of beavers in residence there. The beavers make our job more difficult as we have to continually dismantle their lodge to keep the water flowing or they will have the entire area flooded. This falls into our jurisdiction as we oversee all problems in the Summit Lake area. The ranger and his wife pay us a visit occasionally and check things out. His wife is a Camp Facility Operator at the Liard Hot Springs Campground (mentioned earlier) and managed by the same company. They are both very nice people. We get few visitors so it's nice to chat when people do come to see us.

There are many wild strawberries and low bush alpine blueberries here. I picked and picked our first week here. It is getting late in the season here now, more cold nights and fall like days so most of the berries are finished. It's so odd to think that it is only early August and yet fall is on it's way here. They will have snowfall in October but we will be long gone by then! When we are finished here, we will work a few weeks at the Munch Lake Campground before heading south.

It really is a fabulously beautiful spot up here! Unbelievable views and mountain trails with cold and clean streams everywhere. One even runs across our best hiking trails. If you are traveling the Alaskan highway, make it a point to stop in Stone Mountain Provicial Park at Summit Lake. It is well worth the visit!

These are pictures from the hiking trail across the highway from us. It is such a beautiful hike! We are up at the tree line with the glaciers and fiords!












You can Google the Stone Mountain Provincial Park campgrounds, Summit Lake, Muncho Lake and Liard Hot Springs for more information. There are two Summit Lakes in BC. If you just Google "Summit Lake" you will get the wrong one.










Saturday, August 11, 2012

Our Trip To British Columbia - We Arrived!


We arrived safely! For those of you waiting to hear from us, we are here, but without a cell phone signal or internet. We drive down the mountain for internet and phone use. We are now living in British Columbia, operating a small campground at one of the most beautiful spots in the world - but first I'm going to tell you about our trip.

We got the job offer for this campsite at the last minute, so we pulled away several days earlier than planned. Thankfully we were already packed and ready to go, almost. We spent a day rushing about, packing last minute items and clearing up details then drove away the next day, early on Sunday morning, July 29.



Abby and Shadow, the cats, rode in the trailer for the trip. They were much more comfortable in there than they would have been in the front of the truck with us. They spent most of the first day hiding under the bed! lol! They spent the night with us, going from window to window, around and around, all night long! Needless to say, we didn't get much sleep that night. After that first day they settled down and slept a lot. Whenever we stopped they would excitedly look out all the windows to see where we were. A loud truck nearby would send them scurrying back under the bed for the first few days but they were soon very much at home in the trailer and seemed to enjoy the ever-changing views. They spent most of their time at a window as we travelled.

We drove through much of Ontario that day, going north, north, north up around Lake Superior. That is unbelievably beautiful country covered with deep forest and small lakes, streams and falls everywhere. In spite of it's beauty it's a very twisting and hilly drive!

We had hoped to get quite a bit further than we did, however. We had not gone far that first day when we had our first exciting and worrisome experience! In Sault Ste. Marie the trailer lights quit working! We pulled into a Husky in Sault Ste. Marie (Husky's are great places for travellers!) where we discovered that a sharp turn had sliced through the thick connector containing all the wiring between the truck and the trailer. So, we spent a couple of hours stripping the wires back and soldering them all back together and taping it up. We had dinner there and were soon on our way again, for a short time anyway.

The next morning around 9:30, we suddenly lost power steering. Lloyd pulled off the road and found that the tensioning pulley for the fan belt had siezed. No way to fix it without a new part, but where to get one? After some discussion, praying and walking to see what was up ahead, a young Christian couple stopped and asked us if they could help. (I knew painting that fish on the trailer was a good idea!) They had no room in their truck but they offered Lloyd a ride into Wawa in the back of their pickup. They stopped at the Canadian Tire there and Lloyd went in to buy the parts. He needed a fan belt and a tensioning pulley. They had the fan belt, but not the pulley. After being told there were no more parts stores in town and no auto wrecker either, Lloyd said, "This is how desperate I am. Bring me all the tensioning pulleys you've got and I'll see if one looks reasonably close." So they did, Lloyd chose the one that looked closest to ours and set off to find a way back to us.

Lloyd still had to get back to the truck, and me, at the side of the road 50 kms away. He asked a police officer nearby if she could tell him were he could get a taxi. She asked him where he was going and when told, said that her partner could give him a ride as he was going out that way on patrol anyway. What nice people they were there! So, a police car drove up where I was waiting (and praying) and dropped Lloyd off with the parts. It took only about 15 minutes to get it in place and everything put back together, then we were off again on our adventure! That wrong tensioner pulley (Lloyd has no idea what vehicle it's really supposed to be for) has run perfectly for the whole remainder of the trip!

We got through Ontario without any more problems and found a nice rest stop to sleep the first night of our trip. There were already a few trucks there for the night so we weren't alone. We spent a restless night with the highway noise and the cats in the camper with us, going from window to window all night long, using us to stand on and walk on while we tried to sleep. After that first night, Abby and shadow slept in the truck cab with water and a litter box where they could look out the windows the entire night long. We found them hiding under the seat that first morning, but they soon adjusted to their new bedroom.

We were to start our new job in the campground at Stone Mountain park in BC on Saturday, Aug 4th so we had to hustle! We sped through Manitoba, which did not have enough rest stops and into Saskatchewan. What a difference in the roads! Diving was much easier now that we were entring the prairies with long, flat, straight roads.

The cat-astrophe! We pulled into a gas station for a rest and lunch in Saskatchewan. When we opened the door we were only greeted by Shadow. I looked for Abby and didn't see her anywhere so we called and called her. When she didn't come we began to panic! We did a search in all the cabinets and under the bed, pulling everything out and looking in all the boxes - no Abby! After awhile we had to figure that she had gotten out somehow. We started wondering where she could have gotten out and what we could do about it. She has our phone number on her collar so we hoped that someone would find her and call us. We knew we could not go back hundreds of miles to get her and where would we look anyway? We were crushed. We love that little girl dearly! She is so precious to us!

About this time a fellow pulled up to say that he lived just around the corner and we could park in his driveway for lunch, showers, laundry and water if we wanted to. We had to tell him that we had just lost our little cat and were heartbroken right now, but we appreciated his offer and might take him up on it. We had accepted the fate of Abby and thanked the Lord for giving her to us, even for a few short years, to love and enrich our lives, but we were heartbroken.

When Lloyd went to pay for the gas, I opened a ceiling cabinet to put clothes away and there was Abby! She must have jumped up into the cabinet when I had it open earlier in the day and I didn't see her. She had been soundly sleeping up there and didn't answer when we called. Her meow is so soft anyway, we might not have heard her. I carried her over to where Lloyd could see her and he came running! We were overjoyed and thankful to have found her and we were much more careful about going in and out of the camper after that. Having experienced what it was like to lose her, We watched them both more carefully for the entire trip!

We went to the home of the fellow to at least fill our water tank and found out that they were professional country musicians! One travelled and played with Willie Nelson and Waylon Jennings for a few years! They played and sang for us and we enjoyed the music and the visit but didn't stay long. Soon we were on our way again.

We quickly covered the rest of Saskatchewan, with only a short delay when the RCMP pulled us over and checked out our documents. Luckily all was in order and we soon entered Alberta. We could tell it was Alberta immediately when the first sign we saw said, "Magnum guns for sale!" lol! We stopped at a Husky in Alberta for the night. Most Husky's have clean bathrooms, showers and laundry for travellers and a lot of room for overnight parking but it is noisy with all the trucks coming and going all night.

Checking the vehicles in the morning, Lloyd found a rear tire low. We filled it up and went on, but two hours later at a gas stop, it was low again. Lloyd decided to change it and when he took it off, the inside was covered with oil! Lloyd said the rear axle seal was gone and we'd need to fix it. We made it into Dawson Creek, found a Canadian Tire store and Lloyd went in to get the tire patched and buy a seal for the axle. The girl at the counter told him, "We don't have it and we can't order it", which made Lloyd smile as he left the counter. "Excuse me sir, is something funny?" said the girl with some annoyance. Lloyd tried to explain that a Ford F150 is a common truck and an axle seal is a part that fails commonly and that it just didn't make sense that they couldn't get one if one wasn't in stock, but the girl wouldn't listen. She just insisted it wasn't available. A few minutes later, when Lloyd was picking up the repaired tire, the service manager came out and Lloyd asked him if what he'd been told at the parts counter made sense. He frowned, punched some keys on the computer, went into the stock room and came back with the seal. Right about then the girl returned and yelled at Lloyd, "You aren't going to get any better answer from him than you got from me, why are you wasting everyone's time?" Lloyd and the service manager both glanced down at the seal and then shifted their gaze to her, saying nothing. She turned on her heel and stalked off, calling over her shoulder "Well what he asked for wasn't there!!". If you have to go down, go down swinging.

We turned north again in Alberta and spent most of a day driving north and into British Columbia. We were soon into the edge of the Rockies and beautiful country! We were climbing at this point, going higher and higher into the mountains. The ascent was usually slow with only a few steep hills to climb. We did have a few steep and long ones to go down in places, but we made it with careful driving. We spent our last night on the road just about 100 kms from the campsite and arrived there the next morning without further delay and a day early! We gained three hours going west, as well!
We met the Stone Mountain Provincial Park Manager and she got us set up in our site across the road from the campground that we maintain.

We made it! We are here and we love it! The spot where we now live is the highest altitude on the Alaska highway and it is so beautiful here!

More on where we are now to come...